Wheeler Peak The Highest Peak in New Mexico
Wheeler Peak is the highest point in New Mexico and one of the best climbs in the United States.
In this post, I will share with you everything you need to know about climbing Wheeler Peak including trail information, safety tips, wildlife on the trail, history, as well as my experience climbing it via Williams Lake Trail (including video documentation of this hike that you will find at the end of this blog post).
Views close to the summit of Wheeler Peak
About Wheeler Peak
Wheeler Peak stands at an elevation of 13,161 feet(4011 meters). It lies in the Sangre de Cristo Mountains (Blood of Christ) the southernmost subrange of the Rocky Mountains with spectacular views that I didn’t expect to see in New Mexico.
The Sangre de Cristo mountain range is a collection of peaks stretching 250 miles from Santa Fe, New Mexico to Salida, Colorado.
Wheeler Peak is located within the 19,661 acres of Wheeler Peak Wilderness area in the Carson National Forest and just 2 miles southeast of Taos Ski Valley.
For years, the Truchas Peaks, south of Wheeler Peak, were considered New Mexico’s high point. A survey conducted in 1948 confirmed Wheeler Peak is the highest point in the state.
Wheeler Peak is also located near the Pueblo de Taos Reservation.
Taos Pueblo is an ancient pueblo (Dwelling of an American Indian village) belonging to a Taos-speaking Native American tribe. It’s the Northernmost of New Mexico’s 19 pueblos. The Taos pueblo structures were built over 1,000 years ago and are still lived in by about 150 families.
Taos Pueblo in New Mexico
Why is it named Wheeler Peak?
Wheeler Peak was formerly named Taos Peak after the nearby town of Taos, New Mexico. It was then renamed Wheeler Peak in 1950.
As stated on a plaque at the summit:
Wheeler Peak is named in honor of Major George Montague Wheeler (1832-1909) who for ten years led a party of surveyors and naturalists collecting geologic, biologic, planimetric, and topographic data in New Mexico and six other Southwestern states.
What’s the best time to climb Wheeler Peak
The best time to climb Wheeler Peak is from late May through November. June, September, October, and November are considered dry months, while July and August are the typical monsoon season.
During the monsoon season, afternoon thunderstorms are a daily occurrence. Always check the weather and the trail conditions before climbing.
You might encounter a lot of snow on the trail during summer (more on that later in the article).
Snow on Wheeler Peak via Williams Lake Trail
Wheeler Peak closes for a week around mid to late August for cultural ceremonies of the Taos Pueblo. The dates are usually known when the ceremony is closer and updates can be found here.
How to get to Wheeler Peak?
From Taos, New Mexico, head Northeast on US-60. At about four miles, turn right onto NM-150 N and drive for 15 miles until you reach the Taos Ski Valley area. As you arrive at the ski resort, you will see a big "Taos Ski Valley" sign where the road forks. You want to stay left. You can follow this map to get to Taos Ski Valley.
There are two official trails to get to the summit of Wheeler Peak:
Wheeler Peak via Bull of the Woods Trail (Also referred to as Wheeler Peak Trail)
Wheeler Peak via Williams Lake Trail
For the Bull of the Woods trailhead, continue left after the fork and head into the upper parking lot. There are big trailhead signs indicating the start of the trail. you can follow this map to get to the trailhead.
For the Williams Lake trailhead, continue on Twining road then turn left onto Zap's road and Kachina road to Deer Ln where you will find a large parking lot and public restrooms. You can park your car there and start your hike. From there you will walk following signs to "The Bavarian Grill” and "Williams Lake Trail”.
You can follow this map to get to Williams Lake Trailhead.
Wheeler Peak Hiking Trails
Wheeler Peak via Williams Lake Trail
Wheeler Peak via Williams Lake Trail is 8.5 miles out and back with an elevation gain of 2,972 feet. On average it takes 6 hours to complete this trail.
This is the trail I chose for my climb and I absolutely loved that it’s diverse and pretty easy to follow.
The trail starts at an elevation of about 10,100 feet from a large parking lot and continues past “The Bavarian Grill” and ski area facilities. After the base of the chairlift continue on the broad trail on the left.
In 0.5 miles from the parking lot, you will enter the boundaries of Wheeler Peak Wilderness, soon after you will be on the Williams Lake Trail #62.
Continue on this trail until you get to the trail junction with Wheeler Peak Summit Trail #67. At this point, you will see a sign to continue to Wheeler Peak or to take a side short hike to see Williams Lake (I checked it out on the way down and it was really nice).
From here you continue on Wheeler Peak Summit Trail #67. This is a fairly new trail built in 2010-2011 by the Rocky Mountain Youth Corp and Carson National Forest. It replaced an old, steep route that climbed the avalanche path below the saddle.
This trail is very well marked and easy to follow. There are paint markers on the trees to help you stay on track as you are hiking in the foresty area.
The map from AllTrails is helpful to track your progress and follow the trail, but make sure that you have a paper map in addition to a digital map.
The trail traverses several switchbacks before you get above the tree line. As you make your way above the tree line, the views are STUNNING throughout the rest of the trail. This trail exceeded every expectation I had!
You might come across sections on the trail with a lot of snow or at least enough that you might need microspikes.
It’s time to power through and tackle a set of steep switchbacks to make your way to the saddle. I found this section to be the most difficult. A lot of rocks but still a decent trail.
It felt as if the switchbacks would never end but this is as hard as it gets. You then get to the saddle (Number 2 on the map below) and your hard work will pay off.
On a good clear day, the views are breathtaking. The ridge walk is very picturesque and one of my all-time favorites, but it can be really tough with high winds and exposure.
From the saddle to the summit you will be on trail #90. it’s a short distance of about 0.4 miles to the summit.
From the peak, the views of Taos Ski Valley, the Sangre de Cristo Mountains, and the surrounding Wheeler Peak Wilderness are beyond compare. In my opinion, this is one of the best climbs in the United States.
Take in the beauty of the landscape and celebrate standing at the highest point of New Mexico. YOU MADE IT!
You will take the same trail on the way down (More tips about safety on the trail coming up shortly)
Wheeler Peak via Williams Lake Trail
Wheeler Peak via Bull of the Woods Trail
The Bull of the Woods trail is about 15 miles long out and back with an elevation gain of 4,550 feet. On average, it takes about 9 hours to complete this trail.
This trail is open for hiking, horseback riding, and winter activities like snowshoeing or cross-country skiing.
The trail begins at the parking area for RVs in the Taos Ski Valley, right across the street from the Alpine Village Suites.
You will see a large Carson National Forest sign that says "Wheeler Peak Wilderness".
The trail is well marked and easy to follow. You will stay on Wheeler Peak Trail #90 for the whole hike until you reach the summit.
The first section of the trail follows the forest boundary until you reach Bull of the Woods Pasture. Near the pasture, the trail intersects with Gold Hill Trail. You will hike southeast towards Bull of the Wood Mountain.
You will then come across the La Cal Basin where there are some camping areas if you want to break the climb into two days.
The upper ridge on this trail is more exposed to high winds than the Williams Lake Trail.
The saddle is at the intersection of Wheeler Peak Trail #90 and Wheeler Peak Summit Trail #67 (via Williams Trail)
On the way down, you can choose between descending the same way you came up or descending via Williams Lake Trail for a change of scenery. This will make for an 11.5 miles adventure.
Wheeler Peak via Bull of the Woods
Both trails are incredible and have so much to offer. You can’t go wrong either way (A different story for a winter ascent)
Is Wheeler Peak hard to climb?
The trek to the summit of Wheeler Peak is not easy. High elevation, exposure to the elements, and long hours of hiking make it a difficult trek that shouldn’t be underestimated. However, compared to the other high points in the west such as Humphrey’s peak of Arizona, Mount Elbert of Colorado, or Boundary peak in Nevada, I found Wheeler Peak to be the easiest.
An ascent of Wheeler Peak during winter can be challenging and adds to the difficulty of the climb.
Where to stay before climbing Wheeler Peak?
There are several Forest Service Campgrounds available before getting to the Taos Ski Valley such as Lower Hondo, Cuchillo De Medio, Cuchillo, Italianos, and Twining. Most have water and toilets.
I camped at Cuchillo De Medio right by the water. It’s close to the road but the noise was insignificant throughout the night.
The Twining campground is located at the Bull of the Woods trailhead and is a good spot to camp if you are hiking Wheeler Peak via Bull of the Woods.
There is a 14-day camping limit in the Carson National Forest.
Backcountry camping is allowed without a permit in the wilderness area except within 100 yards of Williams Lake.
How long does it take to climb Wheeler Peak, New Mexico?
On average, it takes 9 hours to climb Wheeler Peak via Bull of the Woods Trail and it takes 6 hours to climb Wheeler Peak via Williams Lake Trail. It may take longer if you are taking longer breaks and if the weather conditions are not the best. A winter ascent of wheeler peak can be much longer.
Wheeler Peak in Winter
Climbing Wheeler Peak in winter is a unique adventure but should only be attempted by experienced hikers and mountaineers. If you are not experienced in winter hiking and avalanche safety, it’s not a good idea to attempt an unguided winter ascent of Wheeler Peak.
In winter, technical gear like snowshoes, ice ax, and crampons may be required depending on the trail conditions. The Bull of the Woods Trail is considered the safest winter ascent route. While Wheeler Peak via Williams Trail is considered an avalanche hazard.
What to pack for Wheeler Peak?
In addition to packing the 10 Essentials for hiking, here are a few more things to take into consideration for this climb specifically.
Wear good sturdy hiking shoes, especially when hiking via Williams Lake Trail. The terrain is rough with a lot of rocks and snow in many sections. For this hike, I wore my Merell hiking boots and they worked well for me.
Pack trekking poles to provide you with extra support on steep sections of the trail. I found them to be very helpful on this climb especially to find footing while walking on snow both when ascending and descending.
Microspikes might be necessary if there’s a lot of snow on the trail. I wish I had them with me but I was able to do without. I met a few people who turned around because they were not comfortable without microspikes. It’s worth packing them just in case.
Dress in layers (This is what my layering system looks like)
Pack a windbreaker, a rain jacket, and a backpack cover. The weather can change rapidly on the mountain and you want to be as prepared as possible.
Below is a list of my day hiking essentials.
Keep yourself nourished on the trail and pack enough snacks both sweet and salty (below are some of my favorites).
Safety tips on Wheeler Peak
Planning ahead is the key to a safe and successful climb. Before you attempt Wheeler Peak follow these safety measures.
Let someone know where you are going
Let a friend, a family member or a partner know where you are going including information about the trail and how much time you intend to be out and about.
For solo hikers, it’s a good idea to carry a satellite communicator for emergencies.
Check the weather forecast
Before you climb wheeler Peak, check the weather forecast on the mountain and prepare yourself accordingly.
Thunderstorms are an extreme danger in the afternoon especially during the monsoon season from July to mid September.
Start early
Get an early start especially in summer as afternoon storms (02:00 pm to 04:00 pm) are common and the risk of lightning is very high above the treeline. The general rule is to make your way down from the peak by noon.
The winds at the top are aggressive and can reach 50mph+.
I started my hike around 05:30 am.
Check the trail conditions
Before hitting the trail, check the trail conditions by reading reports from other hikers, checking recent reviews on AllTrails, or reaching out to the forest service.
Taos Sky Valley has a website and a mobile application with online trail cameras to help visitors plan.
High altitude sickness
Be aware of the risks of high altitude sickness. At 8,000 feet and above, the air becomes thinner. The higher we go up in elevation, the less oxygen there is for the human body to consume. As you climb higher, you can start experiencing symptoms of high altitude sickness like dizziness, headaches, nausea, or even sleepiness.
If this is your first time hiking at this elevation, here are a few tips to handle high-altitude sickness.
Give yourself time to acclimatize by spending a day or two before your climb camping or staying around the trailhead. This way your body has enough time to adjust especially if you are traveling from a lower elevation.
Hydrate the day before and during your climb. hydration is essential even if you don’t feel like drinking water.
Pain killers help alleviate some of the pressure from the headaches that you might experience.
Talk to your doctor before your climb about the possibility of taking medication to help you handle the change in altitude. Diamox is a popular medication amongst hikers and mountaineers attempting high peaks.
If you are not feeling good and you are having severe symptoms, make your way to lower elevation immediately. The mountain will always be there to climb :)
Wildlife in Wheeler Peak Wilderness
Common animal sightings in Wheeler Peak Wilderness include bighorn sheep, marmots, pika, chipmunks, and squirrels.
When I climbed Wheeler Peak via Williams Lake Trail, I saw bighorn sheep from the ridge, pika, pine martens, a lot of chipmunks at the peak, and marmots.
If you hear whistling calls as you hike, that’s from marmots. It’s a warning call to other marmots.
Marmots are hibernators, they sleep a full 8 months of the year and are only active for summer while feeding on grass.
Pine martens, deer, elk, bears, mountain lions, and bobcats are present in Wheeler Peak Wilderness and may be observed occasionally (I carried bear spray with me just in case).
The video below documents my journey climbing Wheeler Peak via Williams Lake Trail. If you found this blog post to be useful, please share and join our newsletter for hiking guides, freebies, and resources to help you explore America one trail at a time.
